Dresses from the old markets of Syria at an exhibition documenting the story of the Syrian heritage in Jordan

Jordan-ALSHARQIYA  March 4: Although ten years have passed since the war in Syria, the Jordanian woman, Widad Kawar, the pioneer in preserving Arab dress and his heritage memory in the Levant, has not lost track of a chapter of that biography in her own way, adding a corner in the "Tiraz to Thobe Center" Al-Arabi - Widad Kawar House "with a new documentary project for Syrian dress bearing the name" The Glory of Syria ", in addition to its rare special collections of Palestinian, Jordanian and other dresses, which number nearly 3,000 pieces.
The visitor's eye is not mistaken in the beauty of the exhibits and the preservation of their condition since 2010, the last year in which she visited with her mother the city of Aleppo, where the old markets were the storehouse of the fair's secrets today.
Her passion for acquiring Syrian clothes and fabrics from the various places of her origins did not stop in the Syrian cities at the time.

The exhibition, which was officially late to receive visitors due to the Coronavirus pandemic, reveals the glorious face of the heritage of those regions that the ugliness of war tried to obliterate, according to Kawar, the daughter, as she said that the exhibition is a tribute to the Syrians and their civilization all over the world, and that Raqqa, Idlib and others are not just massacres and ISIS .
With its various corners, the exhibition simulates the old markets and their shops, the public Levantine bath, bridal supplies, knitting patterns, fabrics, and models of Syrian dresses, as most of what was exhibited during the travels of Kawar born in Tulkarm to Syria were acquired from the seventies until only a year before the war.

The passion of the researcher Kawar, which today is considered one of the most important references in the heritage of Palestine and Jordan, increased with the outbreak of wars in the region and the fear of losing the heritage identity, since her stay in Bethlehem before the 1948 war, when the women of her villages used to shop every Saturday from the city market and wear Their clothes and jewelry, before the war displaced them to the camps.
The origins of Palestinian and Jordanian garments come from Syria, as it was the origin of knitting, fabrics, and weaving of all kinds, and the center of its trade, historically, along the Silk Road.
The classification of Syrian fabrics and dresses in the exhibition was a subjective effort, as it was impossible to document the source of each garment and its original owner, unlike the Palestinian and Jordanian group according to Kawar, as they were bought from Al-Hamidiyah, Damascus, Aleppo and other markets, and not from their original owners.

And between each stitch and embroidery in the garments, there are threads woven in the fragrant of every Syrian village and city, from Idlib and Aleppo in the north, through the Qalamoun and Damascus regions, all the way to Horan in the south, and Raqqa in the east.
The visitor can get acquainted with famous Syrian textiles, such as Al-Sarama, which uses the technique of embroidery with a shiny silk thread, and the Aghabani made of cotton and embroidered with golden silk, and brocade or jacquard, which is made of cotton, wool or embossed silk.
Something similar to it can be found in China, Iran, Italy and France, but what distinguishes the Syrian from it, according to Kawar, is that it is weaved by hand even today in the Levant. Thai dai is also a popular type of textile with dyed die-cast technology.

The stitches or stitches in the displayed garments reflect various skills and arts, including the brick stitch, the buttonhole, the chain or ghani, the cross stitch, the fishbone stitch, the round square stitch, the winding, the feathers, etc., while most embroideries were used until the beginning of the twentieth century, using Syrian silk thread Especially in Aleppo.
In a remarkable harmony between the corners of the exhibition, the designs and fabrics displayed express the occasions for which they were woven, between weddings and the daily traditional dress of the people of the villages and countryside or the inhabitants of the palaces in the Ottoman era, or even the Levantine bathrobes, silk gowns, and shirts.
The weaving of most of the pieces in the exhibition dates back to the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s.

The exhibition includes models of the dresses of the Qalamoun region, whose dress is distinguished by its "trousers", decorated with embroideries around the edges, while the dresses are distinguished by long straight sleeves.
As for the sharp, triangular dresses like wings, they were worn during weddings on special occasions.
As for the dress in the countryside and villages of Damascus and the south, it was characterized by the classic dress known as the feather and embroidered on all sides with a small collar, and decorated with colored pieces of cloth sewn on the same cloth, while the northern and central regions of Syria, as in the areas of Khan Sheikhoun and Al-Sokhun, were exclusively characterized by skirts under the dress Woven from black satin, the front, back and sides are embroidered with embroidery.


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